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Please enter a question. Chevrolet Big Block Camshaft, 16 lifters and install lube. Good idle, low end torque and pulling power. Skip to main content. Only 1 left in stock - order soon. Add to Cart. Secure transaction. Your transaction is secure. We work hard to protect your security and privacy.
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Plan provides coverage for replacement of covered parts. Labor costs are not covered. If a covered part cannot be replaced, you will be reimbursed with an Amazon gift card for up to the amount of your original product purchase price. Add No Thanks.Despite unknown mileage and internal condition, we ventured forward and subjected the engine to the rigors of the dyno.
As luck or preparation would have it, we were rewarded with not just a decent-running BBC, but one that seemed to revel in the abuse we had planned for it. After the initial baseline runs, we stepped right up and swung for the fences by adding a ZEX nitrous system. Undaunted, our BBC hero shrugged off the chemical warfare and offered up over hp and lb-ft of torque. As much as we loved the idea of a nitrous-injected, wrecking yard engine, we decided it was time to dig into the internals and make some power the old-fashioned way.
CHEVROLET 7.4L/454 Camshaft Kits
The sheer displacement meant our BBC hero had plenty of potential. All we had to do was unlock all that power. In stock trim, the low-compression and mild cam timing kept the from achieving its true potential. Besides, the right cam would make much more of a power difference than a couple extra points of compression, and the L29 was already sporting small combustion chambers, which would all but dictate a piston change to alter compression. Changing the pistons would mean rebalancing the assembly, not to mention additional machine work, since we would want to bore the block for a fresh ring seal.
After weighing the options, we settled on the cam swap, but it too was not without a little extra work. Despite the low static compression, care must be taken when replacing the cam on a stock L29 The lack of valve reliefs in the pistons minimizes available piston-to-valve clearance. There is a very real limit to how much lift you can run. Another consideration is the fact that swapping in a healthy high-lift cam will also require a valvespring upgrade. After installing the cam, but before installing the COMP Cams beehive valvesprings PNwe took the liberty of checking the valve clearance.
Using a light checker spring and dial indicator, we measured 0. Because the stock valvesprings were both tired and inadequate in terms of both rate and available coil-bind clearancewe replaced them with the recommended beehive springs. The beehive springs were teamed with a set of steel retainers this low-rpm BBC did not need titanium retainers and seat spacers PN to replace the factory spring rotators. The spacers both located the beehive springs and maintained the necessary installed height for proper seat and open spring pressures.
Though the factory hydraulic roller lifters were still in running order, we replaced them with a set of lifters PN for good measure. The replacement lifters were designed to work with the factory guides and retainer system.
We will likely upgrade the non-adjustable rockers in the future, but for now, we retained the remainder of the stock components. With our cam upgrade in place, it was time for more dyno testing. After installation of the induction components, BBC Big Hero VI was once again installed on the dyno and run in anger with the new cam and valvesprings. The responded very well to the cam upgrade, as the peak numbers jumped from hp and lb-ft with the stock cam to hp and lb-ft of torque.
An increase of 52 hp is always welcome, especially when it comes with a sizable jump in peak torque. Every bit as important was the fact that the combination never traded power down low for the extra 87 hp offered at 5, rpm.
In fact, the cam swap improved power production through the entire rev range, from 3, rpm right past 5, rpm. With sufficient cam and displacement, what our hero needs now is a set of deep-breathing cylinder heads. The bad news is that despite being a hydraulic roller profile, the wimpy specs greatly limit power production. Cam replacement required the removal of the factory damper and composite front cover.
Removal of the damper and front cover provided access to the factory timing chain. Note the 4X trigger wheel on the crank snout used for the electronic fuel injection. Make sure to plug the crank sensor hole before running the engine — we found out the hard way. Removal of the cam gear provided access to the cam retaining plate. The factory hydraulic roller cam required a cam retaining plate to eliminate forward cam walk.
With our retaining plate removed, out came the factory cam to make way for our performance grind.Take a moment to drop by The Store and shop our products. If you don't find what you're looking for, shoot us an email webmaster chevytrucks. We add new items all of the time. Welcome, Guest. Please login or register. News: ChevyTrucks. Author Topic: Stock motor what should I do? Read times.
So I have the stock in the '86 Chevy. I have been reading many many articles and I am still stumped on what a good set up would be for this engine. I do have a new TH and stall converter going in it.
I do have a cfm Double pumper on it right now with a set of no name headers came with the truck. I would like to have that low idle cam lope as well. Any help would be appreciated. Will this truck have to pass emissions? What is your budget for this buildup? Edelbrock has some nice power packages for this motor. You can add the aluminum heads now or later when you have the cash. I don't think a stall convertor is a good idea for towing. First off get rid of that dbbl pumper and get a vac secondary carb.
You can pick up a set of alum heads, air gap intake and a decent cam to work with the gears and TC you have. You don't need aluminum heads.
What are the casting 's on the heads you have? Definitely bring the compression ratio way up. The big blocks can handle much higher compression ratio's better. The edelbrock performer is a decent cam as is their intake. Headers, at least 2. Igosplut Newbie Posts: For pulling the smaller heads are better, just don't expect good breathing over rpms.
Chris Lucas chevytrucks captkaoscustoms squarebody. The truck barely sees over rpms now anyways. Why should I get rid of the Double Pumper?? The did not come from the factory it replaced the that was in it. It does have 4. This truck does not have to be emissions tested at all. I dont have an exact budget set but I would like to keep costs down. Vile, where could I find the casting numbers. Are you suggesting I have the heads milled or ported??
Also, I was looking at the thumpr cams from comp cams. Is this a good buy or should I just stick with the edelbrock??Is it possible to improve the power output of a lowly peanut-port BBC? We all love big-block Chevys, right? But does that love affair include the much —maligned, peanut-port motors? For the uninitiated, peanut port refers to the small, oval-port heads used on the Gen-V truck motors run prior to the introduction of the Gen VI in When Chevy introduced the Gen VI iteration, they replaced the small oval-port heads with conventional-sized oval ported that flowed considerably better than their smaller brethren.
In addition to the less-than-ideal, peanut-port heads, the Gen-V motors were also saddled with hydraulic flat-tappet cams.
Since head flow is one of the key components to power production, the peanut-port heads are often dismissed by big-block enthusiasts as little more than paper weights.Speed Secrets: Gen 6 454 Cam Swap
Though originally equipped with throttle-body fuel injection, we ran our junkyard, Gen —V with a dual-plane intake from Speedmaster and cfm, 4-barrel carb. The computer controller distributor was also replaced with a conventional distributor. Run on the dyno with long-tube headers, the peanut-port produced hp at 4, rpm and lb-ft of torque at 3, rpm. Besides, the junkyards are full of Gen-V motors just begging to be pulled and transformed.
With torque production in mind for a heavy truck or towing application, we decided to see just what the peanut-ports had to offer. To start our adventure, we took a trip over to our local wrecking yard to scoop up a Gen-V While Gen-VI motors offer a number of desirable features, including a hydraulic-roller cam and larger oval-port heads, we wanted to start off with the peanut-ports heads. We liked the fact that the Gen-V motors all came equipped with 4-bolt mains.
The Gen-V motors not only featured the smaller intake ports, but also hydraulic flat-tappet cams. These Gen-V motor will usually be topped by a simple throttle-body injection, which we removed prior to dyno testing.
After grabbing a suitable candidate from a full-sized truck, we cleaned it a littleinstalled it up on the dyno and began our dyno prep. Because it now lacked an induction system, we installed a dual-plane intake from Speed Master. A dual-plane intake is the ideal choice for a low-rpm, torque application. The intake was teamed with a cfm 4-barrel carb, a conventional distributor and long-tube headers.
Run in this configuration, the Gen V produced hp at 4, rpm and lb-ft of torque at 3, rpm. Our thinking was that it was destined to serve long hours under grueling conditions, why not give it a new lease on life. Besides, everything we did would only help power production with the peanut-port heads.
After disassembly, the block was bored. The pistons were slung on the reconditioned, factory rods and a polished, stock crank. Obviously new rings were installed on the forged pistons. The piston swap increased the static compression from pathetically low to a more reasonable 9. The peanut-port heads received a light surface and performance valve job, but were not ported in any way. Additional power would be possible with porting, as the stock head flow was certainly limiting power of our After a fresh coat of paint, the was almost ready to rock, all it needed was the major power producer.
This shot illustrates the port size difference between the factory peanut port and a typical rectangular port head. Fear not as the peanut port heads worked well on this mild application designed with torque production in mind.
Though Gen-V big-block enthusiasts are quick to point to the cylinder heads, the reality is that the limiting factor in terms of power production was actually the camshaft. Designed for towing, the factory truck cams were the mildest of the bunch. Because a broad torque curve was the primary goal, we installed this dual-plane intake manifold from Speed Master.Also known as the Vortec 7. The was essentially the same big block that carried Chevy through the muscle car years, but a hydraulic roller camshaft and revised cylinder heads helped to make it far more efficient than the old LS6 could ever dream of being.
Even so, this engine was built primarily to provide huge towing power for CAFE-standard exempt vehicles, so there remains some room for improvement. Switch to a lightweight synthetic oil. Although Chevrolet doesn't specifically recommend it for this engine, the extreme slipperiness of a full synthetic will allow you to run a thinner weight oil without worrying about undue engine wear.
Thinner oil drags less on internal engine parts, helping the engine to spin more freely and run more efficiently. After all, every horsepower lost to such "parasitic drag" is one less that won't be helping your truck move down the road. Install a high flow air filter and cold air induction intake. A restrictive or clogged air filter will force the engine to work harder to breathe, which makes it less efficient.
A cold air induction setup will feed the engine cooler and more oxygen-dense air. These modifications will help to generate more horsepower without adversely affecting fuel efficiency, which will ultimately increase net mileage. Use a set of long-tube headers exhaust manifolds and an aftermarket exhaust system. That extra air going into your engine needs to get out somehow; installing a full aftermarket exhaust system like this is always good for more fuel economy, especially when combined with a freer-flowing intake.
This modification won't be cheap or easy to install, but will eventually pay for itself if you do a lot of towing or drive a lot of miles. Install an aftermarket windage tray in your engine. Windage trays are thin, sheet metal plates that bolt to the bottom of the main caps and act as a barrier between the oil in the pan and the crankshaft counterweights. Oil tends to collect on the crankshaft counterweights, adding weight to the rotating assembly crankshaft, rods and pistons and reducing horsepower through parasitic drag.
Inexpensive and fairly easy to install, a windage tray will help to keep oil in the sump where it's supposed to be and can even help to extend bearing life by keeping the rotating assembly in balance. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Step 1 Switch to a lightweight synthetic oil. Step 2 Install a high flow air filter and cold air induction intake. Step 3 Use a set of long-tube headers exhaust manifolds and an aftermarket exhaust system. Tip You might also want to consider a high voltage coil, high performance 8 mm spark plug wires and a set of quality aftermarket spark plugs to help your engine ignite more of the fuel that goes through it.
This ignition system upgrade will allow you to set your distributor for a little more timing advance. Normally, advancing the distributor would increase octane sensitivity and possibly fuel economy, but the upgraded ignition system will allow you to do so without adversely affecting fuel burn or horsepower. When taken together, this fairly inexpensive approach can be good for noticeable gains in fuel economy.
Items you will need Standard and metric sockets, full set Flat and Phillips head screwdrivers Ratchet U-joints and extensions Torque wrench Drill and bit set Vise grip, needle-nose and standard pliers. About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. Photo Credits dragster engine image by Robert Young from Fotolia.Display Options.
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Bolt-On 230+ Horsepower to a 454ci Motor Home Big-Block
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Submit Review. The camshaft works well with high-performance street applications, Performer RPM cams provide power from to rpm. This hydraulic lifter camshaft is dyno-matched to Performer RPM manifolds for high-rpm horsepower while still maintaining acceptable low-end torque.
With 10 to 12 inches of manifold vacuum at idle, Performer RPM cams have more lift and duration than most street camshafts. Hydraulic flat tappet lifters are included with each Performer RPM camshaft.